Foto: agrokormspb.ru
Qazaq halqynda tarydan 50-den astam taǵam túri daiyndalady eken. Alaida kóbin qazirgi jurt bile bermeidi. Sondyqtan Ult.kz tilshisi «Dámdi áńgime» jobasy aiasynda etnograf Beken Qairatulynan tarynyń shyǵý tarihy jáne tary taǵamdarynyń qasieti týraly surap bildi.
Qazaq taǵamy negizinen úsh standarttan turady. Olar ‒ sút taǵamdary, et taǵamdary jáne astyq taǵamdary. Etnograftyń sózinshe tary ‒ sol astyq taǵamdaryna jatady.
«Astyq taǵamdary negizinen qarapaiym ómirde tutynatyn jáne joryq taǵamdary bolady. Mysaly bizdiń halyq ómirbaqi joryqqa shyqty. Orta ǵasyrlarda kóshpendilerdiń soǵystary boldy ǵoi, sonda joryq taǵamy degen sen joryqta jeńiske jetý úshin astyǵyń mol bolýy kerek, taryń mol bolýy kerek».
Beken Qairatulynyń aitýynsha tarynyń eń birinshi óndirilgen, paida bolǵan jeri ‒ Qytai.
«Han dárýirinde, bizdiń dáýirimizden 1 myń jyl buryn paida bolǵan. Syma Tsiannyń «Tarihi jazbalar» degen kitabynda ǵundar qytailardan kelip, astyq, tary satyp alatyn deidi. Óitkeni kóshpendi halyq qoi olar. Al eger ózara kelispeýshilik paida bolsa, qytailar satpai qoiatyn deidi. Biraq ol kezde de kontrabandalar bolǵan bolýy kerek. Ekinshiden, taryshylar shyǵaryp beredi deidi. Sosyn bir qyzyq aitaiyn, otyryqshy halyq taryǵa bai ǵoi, sondyqtan olar analardy álsiretý úshin atpen keledi de, tary alqabyn búldirip ketedi».
Al tarynyń sol kezdegi standarty: qyzyl tary, kók tary, sary tary degen túrleri bolǵan eken. Beken Qairatuly tarynyń qasietine toqtalyp:
«Eń bastysy tary qatty taǵam. Qatty taǵam degen sóz ‒ shirimeidi, buzylmaidy, qansha ret joryqqa alyp júrýge daǵdylanǵan jáne soǵan arnaiy ósirilgen taǵam. Al ony bóritpeleý, qurtpalaý, ósirý arqyly adamzattyń qoldanysyna keń taraǵan. Mysalǵa qariia adamdardyń tisi ótpeidi ǵoi, olarǵa bóritpelep, qorytpalap beredi. Bóritpeleý degenimiz ‒ jumsartý.
Qazaqta «tarydan qatty» degen sóz bar ǵoi. Sosyn etnografiiada «tarydai shashylyp ketti» degen sóz bar. Berekesizdikti, aǵaiyn arasyndaǵy keleńsizdikti aitady. Nege? Óitkeni tary shashylǵanda eshqashan jinalmaidy. Óitkeni ol ineniń kózine de ilinbeidi. Sondyqtan shashyp almaýdan saqtanady jáne berekesizdikti tary shashylǵanmen ólsheidi.
Tary jyly alqapty, qunarly, qara topyraqty emes, qyzyl topyraqty jerde, sosyn buta-bógen ósetin jerlerde ósedi. Mysaly bizde tarynyń otany ‒ Aqtóbe. Ol ‒ ońtústikte óspeidi, basqa jerde óspeidi».
Shyǵanaq Bersiev soǵys ýaqytynda tarynyń tórt túrin oilap tapqan jáne tarydan tórt ese ónim alǵan. Qalai? Bul týraly etnograf bylai deidi:
«Soǵys ýaqytynda dep otyrmyn ǵoi, demek maidanda eskirmeitin tamaqtyń biri ‒ tary. Bylaisha aitqanda joryq joldarynda tarynyń mańyzy soǵys kezinde qaita jańǵyrǵan jáne paida bolǵan».
Tarynyń ósetin alqaby bar ekenin aitqan Beken Qairatulynyń pikirinshe bul ‒ ońtústiktiń Buqara jerinde ósken.
«Bizdiń kerýen joldary degen bolǵan. Kerýen joldary degen saýda-sattyq qoi Jibek Joly siiaqty. Osymen tamaǵyn alyp barady. Tary solai aiyrbas saýdaǵa engen. Mysaly shikizatyn beredi de, tary alady.
Tary negizi bizde revoliýtsiiadan keiin, Qazan tóńkerisinen keiin paida boldy. Nege? Keńestik sharýashylyq júieli túrde júrgizildi. Tary egý úshin qoi jaiyp ketip qalmai, turaqty otyryqshy bolýyń kerek qoi. Sondyqtan biz otyryqshylyqqa aýysqannan keiin, tary paida boldy.
Odan keiin, tyń igerý degen úlken naýqan ótti ǵoi. Sol kezde tyń igerýdi qalai júrgizetinimiz týraly Baraev degen institýt bar, Baraev sonyń akkademigi. Bular tarynyń suryptaryn shyǵardy, sosyn bidaidyń suryptaryn shyǵardy. Sóitip tary qaitty? Negizgi keńestik kezde tutynýshy as retinde ósirildi, óndi, sóitip, qazaq dalasynda paida boldy».
Etnograf tary bólek tuqym emes, túr deidi. Tary ósetin jerine, baǵymǵa jáne aýa raiyna bailanysty tipteri paida bolǵan.
«Óitkeni tez ósetin tary bar, sýyqqa ósetin jáne ystyqqa ósetin tary bar. Sosyn tez qorytylatyn tary bar, tez bóritetin jáne bóritpeitin tary bar. Sók degen tarynyń túri bar. Ol tez bóritedi jáne tez daiyndalady. Al qyzyl tary she? Ol eshqashan bórtpeidi, uzaq ýaqyt ketedi.
Taryny bórittirýdiń ózi ‒ tehnologiia. Ystyq sýǵa salasyń, jyly jerge qoiasyń, ystyq jerge qoisań qaidan bóritedi? Eger tym bórtip ketse qaitedi? Ol ydyrap ketedi. Ydyratpai ustaisyń. Bir qyzyǵy bidai tary siiaqty bóritpeidi. Tary uzaq bóritedi, uzaq saqtalady jáne eń qunarly».
Tarydan qandai taǵam túrleri daiyndalatyny týraly sóz qozǵaǵan etnograf Beken Qairatuly taryny qýyryp daiyndaitynyn, ony qaltaǵa salyp júretinin aitady.
«Ony qýyrǵan tary deidi. Al bóritpe tarydan ne isteýge bolady? Kóje, bylamyq isteýge bolady, sosyn irimshikke qosyp, qorytpa isteýge bolady, solai ár túrli taǵam daiyndaýǵa bolady», ‒ deidi Beken Qairatuly.
Aita keteiik, Ult.kz-tiń YouTobe-ta «Dámdi áńgime» degen tanymdyq jobasy bar. Onda Qazaqstanda keń taraǵan taǵamdar men ultymyzdyń súiikti asyn daiynap kórsetemiz jáne ol taǵamnyń shyǵý tegi men tarihyna toqtalamyz.
